When the knives in your kitchen lose their edge, the question arises: should you choose British or Japanese, stainless steel or carbon steel, factory-made or handmade? As more and more cooks look to upgrade their kitchen tools, the quest for the perfect knife has become both a practical and emotional journey.
In Deptford, south-east London, Holly Loftus creates between 10 to 15 handcrafted knives each month, priced from £160 to £580. The price tag reflects not just the materials but the artistry involved. Loftus, an Irish-born craftsman, is known for using intricate techniques, such as damascus steel, which involves layering different steels to create a pattern on the blade. “It’s time-consuming,” Loftus explains. “There’s a lot of folding, cutting, and hammering.”
Such knives, she says, are made to last a lifetime. “My customers understand what they’re buying,” Loftus continues. “These knives require care, unlike mass-produced, factory-made options.”
Loftus did not start out as a knife maker. She initially worked in community services before meeting someone in the business. “Once I realized knives could be made by hand, something about it fascinated me,” she recalls. “I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I read extensively, and eventually, I took a course in Scotland. That’s where I discovered my love for forging—shaping steel with heat and hammer—it was amazing.”
After years of training, Loftus set up her own forge in London, where she learned the craft of making chef’s knives. When asked if she is the only woman in this field, she modestly responds, “I think I’m the only one doing it professionally.”
Her knives combine steel from Germany, Japan, and Sheffield, a city historically renowned for its cutlery. The handles are crafted from cherry, hawthorn, and yew wood, with each knife being a unique piece. Loftus believes a quality knife makes a significant difference in the kitchen. “Cooking has become more accessible, and a well-made knife can transform the experience. A dull knife makes slicing and dicing difficult, but a sharp one changes everything.”
However, Loftus warns consumers to be cautious. “Some companies claim their knives are handmade when in reality, they only attach a handle to a blade of unknown origin,” she says. “Transparency is important.” Loftus, for example, sources all her steel from known mills, and much of her wood comes from trees felled in London.
For those overwhelmed by the variety of knives available, Loftus advises considering both cooking needs and budget. “Any knife can be made sharp, but materials determine how long it stays sharp,” she explains. “Stainless steel dulls faster than carbon steel, but carbon steel rusts, so it’s not ideal if you want a knife that’s easy to maintain.”
When it comes to sharpening, Loftus uses Japanese whetstones but recommends a ceramic honing rod for home use. “It’s gentler on the blade and helps it last longer,” she advises.
The author reflects on the state of their old knives, which had seen better days after 30 years of use. One knife was missing a rivet, while another had lost its blade tip. Though reluctant to replace them due to a dislike of waste, the time had come to invest in a better set.
In the past, choosing knives was simple. The author recalls buying a set of Sabatier knives at John Lewis for their first flat—there was little emphasis on knife quality then. Today, however, the market is flooded with options. From European to Japanese knives, factory-made to handmade, the choices are endless. High-end knives, like a Japanese Miyabi gyutoh with a “101-layer flower damascus design” and a birchwood handle, retail for £459—a far cry from the simpler choices of the past.
Knife shopping has also introduced the author to various artisans in the field, such as James Ross-Harris at Blenheim Forge in Peckham. Blenheim Forge, established in 2014 under a Victorian railway arch, produces knives highly prized by chefs. Ross-Harris and his partner Jon Warshawsky stumbled into the world of knife-making through a DIY project, eventually creating a thriving business known for its meticulously crafted knives.
Blenheim Forge knives are distinguished by their high-quality steel, native hardwood handles, and precise sharpening methods. Each knife is individually sharpened on a Japanese whetstone and then polished on leather. These knives, although costly, are a favorite among professional chefs for their superior functionality and ergonomic design. One such knife that caught the author’s eye is a gargantuan bread knife—a necessity for perfecting sourdough bread. Additionally, Blenheim Forge is collaborating with the last remaining drop forge in Sheffield to produce a range of steak knives, further fueling the author’s obsession.
For those who aren’t ready to splurge on a handmade knife, factory-made knives provide a middle ground. David Mellor, a renowned British designer, offers high-performance knives at a more accessible price point. His knives, made with ice-hardened Japanese steel, feature ergonomically designed handles with a balance that enhances the user’s experience. His knives are priced in the hundreds, but they are designed to last, with durability and sharpness being the key selling points.
The author, after exploring the world of bespoke knives, has yet to finalize their decision but has begun purchasing knives that are both useful and affordable. They’ve already acquired two of Corin Mellor’s knives, inspired by classic Sabatier designs, and some bright-colored Victorinox paring knives for everyday tasks. The search for the perfect knife continues, but one thing is clear: investing in a sharp, high-quality knife transforms the cooking experience.
As the author continues their journey, they reflect on Loftus’s advice—having well-maintained knives makes cooking easier and more enjoyable. Each evening, as they head to the kitchen, they can’t help but wonder: What shall I slice tonight, and how finely?
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