Growing up in a terrace house in Portsmouth, my culinary experiences were shaped by the Istanbul Grill House at one end of the street and Fratton Park, where the local football team played, at the other. However, it was only the Istanbul Grill House that left a lasting impression of value for money and unforgettable flavors.
Between the ages of seven and 11, every Saturday, I would visit the Istanbul Grill House with my pocket money in hand. Upon entering, the enthusiastic proprietor would theatrically salute me and warmly exclaim, “Merhaba, my friend – hello, hello.” I would respond with a wink, engage in some football sticker swapping with his son, and then place my order. Without fail, it was always a cheeseburger. Looking back on those childhood routines now, I can’t help but feel a tinge of regret, having recently returned from Istanbul and fallen in love with the city’s diverse and delectable cuisine.
If I could revisit those youthful visits, my choices would undoubtedly take a different, more adventurous path. I’d begin with a skewer of slow-cooked, marinated lamb paired with creamy hummus, zesty tabbouleh, and a generous drizzle of chili sauce. Following that, I’d savor a steaming bowl of mercimek çorbası (lentil soup), indulge in kokoreç (resembling haggis but with a unique twist), relish a substantial helping of pide (boat-shaped flatbread laden with cheese and spicy sausage), savor a plate of menemen (akin to shakshuka but with scrambled eggs and an added kick of spice), and end the feast with a delightful dollop of sutlaç (baked rice pudding).
Beyond the iconic landmarks and bustling streets, Istanbul’s rich culinary offerings are a hidden treasure waiting to be explored. With a local storyteller as your guide, this city reveals itself as more than just a tourist destination; it becomes a culinary journey filled with unforgettable flavors and experiences that linger in the memory long after you’ve left its enchanting streets behind.