A perfectly twirled bite of spaghetti, a bowl of ramen, and a freshly cooked katsudon—complete with tender pork cutlet and an egg cooked to perfection—hang enticingly from forks and bowls. Stacks of colorful sashimi and towering parfaits create a visual feast, but these dishes aren’t meant to be eaten. They are shokuhin sampuru, highly detailed food replicas that have become a hallmark of restaurant culture in Japan, now showcased in a unique exhibition in London.
The exhibit, titled “Looks Delicious!”, marks the first time these iconic food replicas have been featured in such a way outside of Japan. Curated by Simon Wright, Director of Programming at Japan House London, the show explores the intricate craftsmanship behind these lifelike models, which are designed to entice customers into eateries by offering a realistic preview of the menu. The display is a collaboration with the Iwasaki Group, Japan’s leading producer of food replicas, which has been at the forefront of the industry since its founding.
The exhibition presents replicas produced by Iwasaki, including a version of the company’s first-ever creation—a wax model of an omelette made by founder Takizo Iwasaki’s wife. This “kinen omu,” or celebration omelette, is an early example of the innovative techniques that have since become synonymous with Japanese food replicas. Over the years, Iwasaki transitioned from wax to PVC plastic and agar jelly molds, which remain central to the production process today.
Food replicas have become so embedded in Japanese culture that they are seen as a standard feature outside restaurants, yet their origins are less straightforward. Nathan Hopson, a professor of Japanese studies at the University of Bergen, offers that the history of food replicas is somewhat “messy,” with multiple theories regarding their introduction into Japanese culture. One widely held belief is that they were created to familiarize a cautious Japanese public with unfamiliar Western dishes, allowing customers to see exactly what they might order. The exhibition also includes replicas of classic Western foods like bacon and eggs, as well as grilled cheese sandwiches.
The highlight of “Looks Delicious!” is a strikingly detailed map of Japan, composed of food replicas representing each of the country’s 47 prefectures. The Iwasaki Group was commissioned to create each dish, many of which are being replicated for the first time. Choosing which dish would represent each region was no easy feat for the exhibition team. Wright explained that they consulted a list provided by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries and reached out to local residents for input. “It quickly became clear that everyone has an opinion about what food truly represents their region,” Wright noted.
An exception was made for Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost prefecture, which is represented by two dishes: kaisen-don (a rice bowl topped with seafood) and ohaw, a traditional soup from the indigenous Ainu people. Since no replica of ohaw had ever been made before, the exhibition team went to great lengths, having the soup prepared, photographed, and sent to Osaka for replication in less than 24 hours.
One of the most difficult aspects of replica-making is crafting the illusion of liquid. Replicas of soup and beverages are particularly challenging, requiring meticulous techniques to ensure they appear as though they could spill at any moment. Wright described this as part of the “hyper-realism” that characterizes these food replicas, designed not only to capture the viewer’s attention but to trigger an emotional response—a sense of familiarity and expectation. “These replicas are designed to lure people inside,” he explained. “They promise what the customer can expect.”
Hopson emphasized that the replicas serve a deeper purpose than just visual appeal. In Japan, they are seen as a “promise” to the customer that the food displayed will match what they receive. “It creates a level of trust,” he said, “I can walk into any restaurant in Japan and know exactly what I’m going to get based on the display outside.”
The origins of food replicas, however, are rooted in practicality. In the aftermath of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, Shirokiya, a major Tokyo department store, introduced food replicas to help customers navigate the cafeteria menu. With many people unable to cook at home due to the disaster, these lifelike displays allowed shoppers to visually choose their meals while waiting in line. According to Hopson, this innovation was part of a broader trend toward modernizing consumer experiences in post-disaster Japan, setting the stage for the boom in fast food and modern retail practices that followed in the 1970s.
While still a familiar sight in Japan’s restaurant windows, food replicas are now evolving beyond their marketing function. The “Looks Delicious!” exhibition also showcases how these models are used in agriculture and food manufacturing, such as illustrating ideal diets for people with specific nutritional needs, including diabetes.
For a more interactive experience, the exhibition allows visitors to create their own bento box from an assortment of replica dishes, turning the display into a playful, hands-on activity. The exhibition runs until February 15 and offers a rare glimpse into the world of hyper-realistic food art, a staple of Japanese culinary culture now on display in London for the first time.
Related topics
