The Great Indian, 139 Marlborough Road, London N19 4NU
Small plates: £7.50-£11.50, large dishes: £9.50-£23.50, desserts: £6.50, wines from £23, Cobra: £6.30
In the heart of London’s Archway, a former pub has been reinvented as The Great Indian, an innovative new food pub blending traditional Indian flavors with a modern gastropub atmosphere. While the menu boasts creative twists on classic Indian dishes, it also emphasizes a careful balance of cultural influences—leading some to reconsider what defines “Indian food” in today’s culinary landscape.
At the top of the menu, phrases like “comfy,” “social,” and “vibe dining” greet diners. Though these terms might seem to set expectations for a relaxed, inviting environment, it’s the descriptor “Indian influenced” that captures the true essence of the establishment. The Great Indian, which shares its name with a takeaway in Hackney, is the brainchild of Aman Dhir. Here, the restaurant’s executive chef, Surjan Singh (known as Chef Jolly in India), brings a wealth of experience to the kitchen. Singh is no stranger to television, having served as a judge on MasterChef India, and is joined by a skilled team of Indian chefs and front-of-house staff, including a head waiter recently arrived from India.
The decision to use the term “influenced” instead of simply calling the food “Indian” is a reflection of heightened sensitivities around cultural appropriation and dish origins. For instance, the menu features items like gunpowder Buffalo wings, which seem to step outside traditional Indian culinary boundaries. However, this playful fusion is part of the restaurant’s broader mission to present food that acknowledges Indian roots while embracing creativity.
A standout dish is the lamb “taco roti,” a delicate, buttery roti folded around a rich, dry lamb curry. The curry’s sauce is almost reduced to a crisp crust around the meat, and it is topped with deep-fried curry leaves, served in a metal tray typically used for tacos. The dish is a prime example of The Great Indian’s dedication to elevating Indian flavors with a contemporary twist. It might not fit neatly within a traditional culinary framework, but that’s precisely what makes it exciting.
Located in the space once occupied by the Prince Alfred pub, The Great Indian is not your typical “Desi pub”—a pub with an Indian kitchen serving the local South Asian community. While the establishment does offer a bar serving Cobra, Guinness, and Neck Oil IPA, the vibe here leans more towards a restaurant experience. The bar area is inviting, with a jade-green tiled frontage, but it feels more like a waiting area for diners rather than a place to spend the evening with drinks alone.
Inside, the décor is thoughtfully designed, with rattan lampshades and artificial foliage hanging from the ceiling. Attention to detail is evident in the food as well. To begin, the spiced poppadoms come smoked and are served with a chutney trio, cleverly presented in the colors of the Indian flag. This is followed by tamarind-rich chaat, accompanied by warm vegetable samosas nestled among a bed of crispy fried noodles and pomegranate seeds.
For lunch, diners can choose from thalis priced at £14.90, featuring options like butter chicken or tandoori paneer. The larger dishes are similarly packed with flavor and depth. The Punjabi lamb curry, for instance, offers a rich gravy colored like freshly turned London clay, with a bold blend of roasted spices and a hint of acidity. The dal makhani, simmered for 48 hours, is rich and buttery, providing comfort in its simplest form—perfect for a rainy day in London.
For a hearty main, the chicken biryani is served in a cast-iron pot, releasing fragrant waves of cardamom and caramelized onions. The dish is paired with a creamy garlic yogurt, making it a satisfying and indulgent meal. Additionally, a naan stuffed with pickled chilies and stringy cheese adds a satisfying richness that speaks to the restaurant’s desire to satisfy all appetites.
Desserts here are equally comforting, with options like syrup-soaked gulab jamun served alongside rabdi, a thickened milk dessert infused with cardamom and saffron. Topped with almonds and pistachios, it’s the perfect conclusion to a meal that offers both warmth and sweetness against the chill of a London winter.
The Great Indian may seem like an ambitious name for this new venture, but it fits comfortably among other gastropubs redefining the genre, such as The Tamil Prince nearby. While some locals may feel nostalgic for the pub’s past, those who appreciate inventive cuisine will likely embrace the transformation. In a city known for its diverse food scene, The Great Indian proves that sometimes, reinvention is the key to finding success.
Related topics
