Semolina-based pastries and puddings, deeply rooted in culinary traditions spanning the Mediterranean, North Africa, and the Middle East, have tantalized taste buds for centuries. Among this diverse tapestry of delectable treats, there exists a delightful gem known as Tishpishti. Traditionally crafted using fine semolina and drenched in a luscious syrup concocted from sugar, honey, or a harmonious blend of both, Tishpishti emerges as a dessert of unparalleled versatility. It not only captivates palates with its sweet allure but also showcases an array of regional variations, featuring a diverse spectrum of ingredients and flavorings. The Tishpishti experience can include or exclude nuts, incorporate or omit eggs, and boast tantalizing citrus accents from lemon, orange, or rose water, depending on one’s cultural and geographic origins.
Venturing into different corners of the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern map, one will discover that this confectionery marvel dons various aliases, reflecting its rich cultural history. In Egypt, it goes by the names “basboosah” or “baboussa,” while in Syria, it answers to “namora” or “namoura.” On the enchanting island of Crete, it takes on the appellation “shamali.” However, Tishpishti, the moniker most commonly invoked, serves as our focal point and is primarily associated with its Turkish origins.
In his seminal work, the “Encyclopedia of Jewish Food,” Gil Marks elucidates that for Jews hailing from the once-Ottoman realms of Turkey, Greece, and the Balkans, Tishpishti bears a name that can be traced back to Turkish etymology. A blend of “tez” (meaning fast or quick) and “pişti” (signifying plane or slope), this moniker beautifully translates to “quickly done.” In Ladino, a Judeo-Spanish language, it may also be referred to as “pispiti,” “tupishti,” or “revani,” as noted by Joyce Goldstein in her work, “Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean,” where it is associated with a 16th-century Turkish poet extolling the pleasures of food.
While numerous Tishpishti recipes incorporate eggs, with some even dictating the separation of egg whites and yolks—a significant Sephardic influence—this particular recipe pays homage to an ancient tradition of crafting cakes from a dense, eggless dough. Embracing a touch of modernity, we introduce 19th-century innovations in the form of baking powder and soda to achieve a lighter cake texture. Opting for ground almonds instead of walnuts produces a cake with a paler hue, symbolizing the tradition of a bright new year, especially fitting for Rosh Hashanah celebrations.
Tishpishti, a true culinary masterpiece, can be savored on its own, or complemented with a dollop of yogurt, labneh, or whipped cream, accompanied by a steaming cup of mint tea or robust Turkish coffee. With its rich heritage and exquisite flavors, Tishpishti invites us to embark on a gastronomic journey through time and culture.
