London’s culinary landscape is experiencing a delightful infusion of West African flavors as high-end restaurants gain coveted Michelin stars. Among the gastronomic gems captivating diners is Akoko, located in central London, where patrons are savoring a delectable dish featuring tender, buttery, and spicy cow tongue. This signature creation is meticulously seasoned with suya, a traditional Hausa spice, then grilled over firewood and presented on a ceramic plate inspired by the renowned Nigerian potter Ladi Kwali, accompanied by a luscious bone marrow emulsion.
Recently awarded a Michelin star, Akoko is among the select few worldwide recognized for “offering outstanding cooking.” Notably, it is one of three establishments with a West African heritage head chef to receive this prestigious honor in the past year.
Executive chef Ayo Adeyemi expressed his delight, stating, “This is just the icing on the cake.” Akoko’s success mirrors a broader trend in London’s Fitzrovia neighborhood, where another West African chef, Adejoké Bakare, earned a Michelin star for her Chishuru restaurant earlier this month.
A self-taught chef from Nigeria, Bakare made gastronomic history by becoming the first black female in the UK to receive a Michelin star and only the second in the world. In an interview with the BBC, she emphasized the importance of sharing heritage through cuisine, noting, “People can connect to the fact that we are sharing our heritage, and people can see themselves on the table.”
Bakare hopes that her recognition will prompt Michelin to broaden its scope and acknowledge the culinary richness of the entire African continent. The Michelin award, often considered a barometer of gastronomic success, has faced criticism for its perceived bias towards restaurants with white male chefs, and a perceived lack of inclusion for African cuisine.
The UK Michelin chief inspector, whose identity remains confidential, responded to these concerns by stating, “We are only looking for the restaurants proposing the best food regardless of category. Our restaurant selections reflect the culinary diversity and evolution of the food scene. Chishuru and Akoko are therefore an illustration of the growing diversity of London’s fine dining scene.”
